Is is autumn yet?
With the temperatures we’ve had lately, and what with a very poor showing of the wet stuff, there are a lot of plants in my garden that are extremely annoyed. Hydrangeas have had it, berries have bought it, and even the native rudbeckia is starting to pack her bags and think about a future in the Pacific Northwest.
I am pulling out manuals on drip irrigation and trying to prepare myself for the quarterly water bill, allocating precious water to the vegetables first, the flowers second, and the children’s summer cavorting, third. But in some places in my garden there are a few plants that actually have the nerve to look…well…happy. These are the Mediterranean herbs – the leaves of which make our sauces sing and our meats marvelous. They are well suited to a blisteringly hot, unrelentingly dry climate and seem to relish our current conditions, thumbing their collective noses at less hardy English-rose types such as Phlox paniculata. The contempt is almost palpable out there – and let me tell you, the well-bred phlox is in no condition to fight back with clever words and well placed jibes; she’s just trying to stay alive.
I think it’s important at this point to clarify what I mean when I say “Mediterranean Herbs.” In my garden, this means Rosemary, Oregano, Sage, Thyme and Lavender. I have heard of many herbs termed “Mediterranean” over the years, such as parsley, chives, basil and borage – and indeed they are features of many wonderful Mediterranean recipes – but my experience has classified these delicious plants into a different group, one that prefers the sun on their backs and not burning their feet. My garden survivors are those that have graced the rocky shores and dry hills of countries such as Greece, Anatolia, and Italy for thousands of years, and are perfectly happy in a drier-than-average Mid-Atlantic summer. I do not list all of them here, but rather those that I grow and use regularly.
Rosemary is a favorite of the bees too...
First up is Rosemary officinalis. After years of losing beloved plants to cruel Mid-Atlantic winters, I now grow the cultivar “Arp” – hardiest for cold winters and lovely as an upright specimen. Rosemary is an herb whose fragrance will linger on your fingers long after you have bent to touch its strong, slender stems. Its flavor pairs so beautifully with roasted or grilled meats that, quite frankly, it should have pride of place at the local butcher’s stand. One of my favorite marinades for pork tenderloin pairs it with mustard and balsamic vinegar, although I also love to use the strong woody stems as kebabs for beef or lamb.
Nearby are tall stems of oregano vulgare (the cultivar name lost in the mists of time). The drier the garden gets, the longer these stems seem to reach. Oregano is by far the most overused herb in my kitchen – and it’s usually all about sauce. I love to use the herb fresh in the spring and summer months, but it is so easy to harvest and dry that I have said goodbye to the large Costco containers forever. One whiff of oregano and thoughts of homemade pizza are not far behind.
Sage is not as useful in my kitchen as it is in my garden. Although I know it has many uses, I tend to regard it primarily as an herb for poultry and haven’t experimented enough with the wonderful pork recipes I know are out there. In the garden it is a true summer warrior, starting the season with beautiful panicles of purple flowers, and often blooming again in the fall if I have been diligent in cutting it back. As a specimen plant in a gravel garden – given space, drier soil and a rock mulch, sage becomes shrub-like, and really stands out.
Thyme is French provincial cooking at its best. Thyme actually dislikes too much rain on its leaves, and is happiest growing in an open spot with its fragrant friends. There are more varieties of thyme than I have column space, but I have to admit my favorite is plain old Thymus vulgaris (read: common), and I am planning to use more in a difficult, sandy bed as soon as I have the energy to brave the hot summer sun.
Shockingly overgrown, yet beloved.
Although Lavender is a main component of the herb blend “Herbes de Provence” it is not necessarily one that I like to use in everyday cooking. But Lavender is invaluable during a dry season ‑ providing a sweet smell, a healthy growth habit and rest for the weary gardener, tired of watering every square inch of soil. I grow “Munstead” and an Intermedia variety, “Provence.”
Each of these herbs has adapted to life in a Mediterranean climate in similar ways – sporting strong woody stems, small grayish green leaves, and a resinous depth of fragrance. They are normally irritated by our plentiful moisture and humid summers, but this is the year for them to shine. So run a stem through your fingers, breathe deeply and imagine the blue green waters of the Aegean lapping gently at your ankles. The fragrance of these sturdy herbs can clear the mind and transport the soul – which might just come in handy when it’s time to open the water bill.
